Sushi Go 55
333 S. Alameda Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013-0013
(213) 687-0777
Pioneering Traditional Japanese Dining at Sushi Go 55
The day had arrived for me to visit Sushi Go 55, owned and operated by the Morishita Family, pioneers in the Japanese restaurant industry.
Previous generations of the present owner, Tomoko, had opened Eigiku Restaurant on 2nd Street in Little Tokyo in 1923. After the outbreak of the Second World War, they returned to Japan for a period, but in the middle of the 1950s they reopened Eigiku at the same location and in 1966 opened the second sushi bar in America (after Kawafuku). In 1973, Tomoko took over the business, opening Club Nirvana in 1995 and then in 2004, Izakaya Haru Ulala and Sushi Go 55 in rapid succession, which takes us up to today.
It was the beginning of May, just after 7:00 in the evening. I made my way to the third floor of the Little Tokyo Shopping Center building at the
corner of Alameda and 3rd Street. I was grateful that there was parking in the garage area. Within the building on the average day at night it is usually quiet, but as soon as I set foot in the restaurant, I heard a loud commotion. The owner Tomoko led me to the sushi bar where I sat down. Already the dining area was full and the sushi bar was also packed except for two or three seats that were left. As might be expected after winning awards for the best sushi from Citysearch and the Downtown News, it has become very popular.
Handwritten on three sheets of letter size paper were Today’s Specials, listing sashimi and sushi, along with a tempting selection of appetizers at moderate prices. This unostentatious menu somehow conveyed a feeling of warmth…
Displayed were Broiled Japanese Eggplant topped with sweet Dengaku Miso sauce $3.50, Deep Fried Tofu $4.50, Deep Fried Panko-Crusted Hama-Hama Oysters $6.00, Japanese Cucumbers topped with Moromi Miso $3.00, Whole Fresh Shiitake Mushrooms with Minced Prawn Tempura served with Lemon and Sea Salt $6.00 and others.
For today’s sake tasting, I followed Tomoko’s recommendations and proceeded with a meal centered around sashimi and sushi, supplemented with a number of dishes from the appetizer menu.
Dish 1: Mozuku Seaweed with Nagaimo Yam $5.00
In the middle of a heaping helping of mozuku seaweed, pure white grated nagaimo yam is placed with finely grated shoga ginger floating lightly on top. It evokes an image of the night sky and a bright moon. The acid taste in the vinegar blends with the elegant sweetness to give the flavors such a fresh feeling that I did not want to miss a drop.
Best Pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Next best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
Dish 2: Halibut Sashimi
On the left side of light purple colored, long rectangular plate there are attractive slices of halibut, while on the right there rolls of halibut filled with uni sea urchin arrayed in this appetizer that takes luxury up a notch. With ponzu citrus sauce, the effect is refreshing.
Best Pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 3: Miso Spanish Mackerel and Ponzu Spanish Mackerel Thickly sliced Spanish mackerel are savored two ways.
With green onions and ponzu sauce, it is bracing. And then, paired with onions added to miso tare, one feels that everything is incorporated to make a perfect fit to be enjoyed. The earnest hospitality is heartfelt in this dish.
Best Pairing: Special Junmai “Mune no Uchi” (ponzu), Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura” (miso)
Next best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura” (ponzu), Ginjo, “Akita Toji” (miso)
Dish 4: Steamed Egg Custard in Broth (Chawan-Mushi) Shiitake, gingko, chicken, whitefish…
and then jumbo shrimp are all loaded in. Lightly seasoned and topped with yuzu citron that brings out the flavor in this elegant chawan-mushi.
Best Pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Next best pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
Dish 5: Shirayaki Broiled Sea Eel $15.00
This shirayaki has had the excess oil drained and the delicious flavor sealed in. The cooking method is one used with the best ingredients. In the mouth, this anago eel melts away and is to be enjoyed in two ways. First, with yuzu citron and pepper, where it is bracing, next with a thick tare sauce, giving a voluminous feeling of satisfaction.
Best Pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura” (yuzu, tare)
Next best pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi” (yuzu), Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui” (tare)
Dish 6: Monk Fish Liver
“Foie Gras of the Sea” Monk fish liver is the most popular of the rare delicacies and is called the foie gras of the sea. The light orange monk fish liver served in a four compartment dish, a treat that makes one almost squeal with delight.
Best Pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Next best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
Dish 7: Sliced Grilled Conch Cooked in Conch Shell in Broth $8.00
This dish yields nothing to the monk fish liver in terms of a healthy portion. The conch is thoroughly drenched in an elegant, hefty-bodied broth with the aroma of shiitake mushrooms. One can enjoy to the fullest the rich mineral taste of the sea on one’s palate.
Best Pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
The following pairs of fresh Edo-mae sushi were enjoyable.
Dish 8: Scallops
Best Pairing: Special Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
Next best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 9: Kanpachi Amberjack
Best Pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
Next best pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Dish 10: Octopus from Japan
Best Pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 11: Live Sweet Shrimp
Best Pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 12: Jumbo Clam
Best Pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 13: Squid fin
Best Pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Dish 14: Uni Sea Urchin Roasted brown uni sea urchin in hand-crafted sushi
Piping hot on the palate, the aroma of the fragrant uni fills the mouth.
Best Pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
While the rich experience of the sushi chefs Kozo and Tatsumi is rarely to be found, it is the attentive hospitality of Tomoko that is surprising and demands one’s admiration. It is not limited to the sushi bar and the dining room, but when guests come to pick up an order, her eyes shine as she routinely checks it. Whether it is the amount of dipping sauce or the amount of the condiments or anything else, if she thinks that it is insufficient for the best way of eating, she will rush into the kitchen to make things complete. One can see the natural scrupulousness and attentiveness that she generously bestows. To Tomoko, the essence of a restaurant should be nirvana, that is, “heavenly bliss,” as she explains it. She wants her guests to enjoy themselves comfortably and go home happy. It may be imagined that such a thought is always foremost in her mind and is the origin of her ethos of service.
The restaurant’s day is at its end and it is already 11 o’clock. But Tomoko’s work still continues. She continues on her rounds to Izakaya Haru Ulala and afterward to Club Nirvana. After four or five hours of sleep she rises and go to the fish market at 7:00 am to shop for the restaurant. So as not to be embarrassed in front of her customers, she picks out the fish herself. Just from listening to her one feel faint, but she has been doing this for many years.
The words that often come out of Tomoko’s mouth are “positive thinking.” Everyone possesses tremendous energy but they can be unaware of it or they can get stopped and blocked. Depending on others is no good, one has to awaken oneself. Tomoko has persuasive power and one receives energy from her words. There are many things that Tomoko still wants to do. In the future as well she will be a pioneer of pure Japanese cuisine to plant the seeds of nirvana more deeply in America and spread them far and wide.
Perhaps it was meeting an elder with such a trustworthy character, but in the refreshing breeze of the late night, I felt it in my heart as I made my way to the car with light footsteps.