Benihana Torrance Grand Opening

—Looking Back 43 Years, Benihana, Pioneer that Introduced Japanese Teppan Iron Grill Cuisine to America—

by Hiroshi Kawabata

When speaking of Benihana, it was an innovative idea that came during an era when “What is Japanese cuisine?” was being asked and combined teppan cooking with entertainment that spread throughout the United States and then all over the world, a pioneering effort. It has been 43 years since the first restaurant was opened in New York and now the number of restaurants, including the international ones, is more than 100. Amidst this vigorous activity, the venerable, “old time traditional” Benihana on June 19th had a grand opening in Torrance.

As soon as one steps foot inside the restaurant, one sees that the atmosphere is different from the usual Benihana. Up to now, Benihana has represented the traditional, real Japan, with an interior décor that reflects that. But in regards to that, the manager, Mr. Yagi says, “Before we decorated, the exterior of Benihanas was distinctive, with steep sloping roofs that were identifiable from far away and the interior was based on Samurai themes, with yoroi armor and kites and things hung on the walls in a purely Japanese style. This time the décor shows a new concept from Benihana that is completely different from all those that have come before. There is practically nothing of the Japanese style in the atmosphere. This design has gotten a tremendously good response, with everyone saying that it is fantastic. It is also being said that it is like walking into the lobby of a hotel. The feeling is that it is the 21st century Benihana.” (At the beginning of this year, Chain Store Age magazine, published by Benihana, announced in its 25th Annual Retail Store of the Year competition that this restaurant had won the award for the new design with restaurant chain. From here on we will probably be seeing more developments along the lines of this new concept in Benihanas.)

The entrance incorporates a yagura watchtower and entering the restaurant one encounters a large objet d’art of Chinese characters reading “Benihana” hanging down. On the left side of the objet d’art is the sushi bar and on the right side is the bar and the teppan flatiron grills. Close to the entrance one finds displayed on the wall framed and autographed photographs of the founder of Benihana, Rocky Aoki and distinguished guests, and if one just focuses on that spot, it is reminiscent of the atmosphere of a contemporary museum. Within the restaurant there are various places (such as the area where the photographs are hung or the objet d’art) that have spotlights illuminating them and that makes for a completely theatrical atmosphere that one can enjoy.

—Rocky Aoki, Founder of Benihana—
Here is one anecdote. The second time Aoki set foot in New York was in 1960 as a wrestler with the Japanese wrestling team on a visit to America. While he was absorbed in his studies and wrestling, he dreamed of someday opening his own restaurant. In order to raise money for that, he started with a mobile ice cream stand in Harlem. With that, somehow Aoki amassed the substantial sum of $10,000 within three months. Using that as his start-up capital, in 1964 Aoki opened his first Benihana restaurant in New York.

“But there were no customers at all! For six months it went on like that and I was frantic because it was so bad. I took the name ‘Benihana’ from a restaurant that my father had run in Japan, but finally I said to my father, ‘Even though I was specifically granted the Benihana name, I think that it is time to close. Please forgive me.’ Hearing those words, my father came from Japan and, looking at the restaurant, said, ‘Rocky, perhaps America isn’t the country to do this in?’ Around that time, we were standing before the customer with a servile attitude cooking on the teppan grill. In Japan it was drilled into us that taking food and producing a bad meal would invoke the punishment of heaven. There was absolutely no perception that food could be made into something like a performance. My father inadvertently asked, ‘Are you trying to do a show in front of the customer?’ That was the origin of the idea, a style of show, a ‘cooking dance,’ that made me hit upon the concept of having a show style cuisine. Whirling the salt and pepper shakers around while seasoning the food, it was a bit hit. ‘This is it!’ I thought, you know.”

That innovative idea hit the bull’s eye splendidly! The publicity was like an avalanche and starting in New York, the media in all of the United States talked about Benihana. In an instant, there were endless lines in front of the thriving restaurant. From there, to all of the United States and then it developed internationally.

The founder still has the pioneering spirit after 43 years have passed. The emotion that he had as a chef displaying his skill on the teppan grill at the start is still fresh after countless times doing so. The basics of teppan grilling are also the same, with one chef devoted to pleasing the customer. This kind of feeling can naturally only be experienced at Benihana. Traditional Hibachi Steak is $21.00 / Benihana Chicken Picante $17.50 / Hibachi Tuna Steak $22.00 / Seafood Combination $34.75 / Twin Lobster Tails $38.75 / Benihana Yakisoba Dinner $17.25. Besides these dishes, prices at the sushi and bar are also reasonable.

Benihana Torrance
21327 Hawthorne Boulevard
Torrance, CA 90503
Tel.: (310) 316-7777
5:30 pm – 10:00 pm (Monday through Thursday)
5:30 pm – 11:00 pm (Friday)
5:00 pm – 11:00 pm (Saturday)
1:00 pm – 9:00 pm (Sunday)

Lunch Hour
11:30 pm – 2:00 pm
(Monday through Friday)