The Bishamon Group

by Yuji Katsumata

Originating in the suburbs of Los Angeles and expanding to five or six locations in Little Tokyo, the Bishamon Group is led by President Koyama Takaaki, with whom we spoke in regards to the future development of the operation, his thoughts about food and other matters.

The Bishamon Group opened its sushi bar, “Bishamon,” in 1993 and with that as a base, following that they opened a ramen shop, “Daikokuya,” an izakaya pub, “Ebisu” and then recently on the second story of the Miyako Hotel, a Japanese restaurant, “Tamon,” with expectations of remodeling the next door lounge, “Ohjah,” all in Little Tokyo. Besides this, in Arcadia it owns “Bento-ya” and runs a catering service with the focal point on sushi and the like, centered around hotels and similar places and spreading out from there. Along with employing close to a force of 100 employees, including full and part time workers, for the Japanese community it is continually introducing stronger winds of change in regards to cuisine.

Koyama comes from Tokyo and trained in Japan as a cook. In 1988 he came to the United States as the manager of “Bishamon” to run the restaurant. After that, the restaurant became the basis of the present development.

We asked President Koyama about things like the nature of the business operations and the direction for the future.

—What is most popular within the Bishamon Group?
The menu of each individual restaurant is different, so it changes according to that restaurant. At Daikokuya, only one kind of broth, tonkotsu pork is served with varieties of it, so that is the most popular. Actually, I like ramen and up to now we experimented with a number of kinds of tastes and as a result, we decided on the present flavor. Originally, soy sauce flavor was the basis, but I think that from now the period is coming when Americans will be eating things like ramen, so by a process of trial and error with Western styles of flavors, we came up with this “tonkotsu” type. Therefore, a tonkotsu soup is the foundation upon which a soy sauce flavor ramen can be made. Recently, young Americans have become sophisticated and picky about seasoning. They research things on the internet, so they are quite knowledgeable. Consequently, although it takes a lot of time and trouble, there is value in creating it. Other cooking is also the same.

—How will the market in the United States develop from here on?
Depending on the area, the needs are different, so first we have to learn what is being sought in that area and then I believe it would be desirable for us to make it possible to supply that. At this time our focus is on Los Angeles, so outlying suburbs and other states are not within our field of vision. Doing so would make the distance between individual restaurants too great, so that making the rounds would take time and it would become impossible to listen to the voices of working people. In addition, along with that, coming up with creative schemes for flavors and cuisine would end up being neglected.

—What are the developments in tastes aimed at the American palate?
Fundamentally, we do not think about that. First, we create a new dish to try and if it is the kind of cooking where one says, “This is delicious,” we think about how to serve it to customers. The result of that is if Americans begin to accept it, we put it on the menu. Recently, American’s palates have become more sophisticated and it seems to me they can discriminate among a range of different tastes. There is great depth within the generations in their twenties and thirties.

—What are your thoughts in regards to creative cuisine?
I trained in Japan, but I am not particularly insistent on “Japanese style.” I pay careful attention to the customers expressing their preferences and adopt various things. I feel that it is important to have the attitude of responding to people’s needs. We try to seize good opportunities to take up the challenge with new ingredients.

—Speak about the kinds of cuisine and restaurants and the like that you, President Koyama, enjoy.
Fundamentally, I like Japanese cuisine and combining that with research, I go to places that run by Japanese and which are frequented by many Americans. And I also try 100% American restaurants.

—What is the outlook for the future?
More than anything, human resources are the most important, so we seek out people who are eager to come from Japan and we like to work together to grapple with creative schemes, you see. We are not sticklers for authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine, but incorporate elements of Western cuisine, such as French and I feel a strong affinity for things like fusion cooking. “This restaurant is original.” If we can create food like that, I am satisfied. My fondest hope is that we can get to the point where customers order “omakase” chef’s selection courses, something that does not exist yet.

Without insisting on “Japanese cuisine,” but incorporating touches of the “West,” President Koyama is someone who is introducing a style that is all the more indicative of “Japanese cuisine” and is carrying on the pioneering spirit in the United States. He not only manages restaurants, but along with his employees actively participates in the creative process in the Japanese community. At Nisei Week and various karaoke competitions, starting approximately ten years ago background dancers called the “Bishamon Dancers” have been gracing the stage. This, too, is a voluntary effort by employees and showing the company’s approval, space in restaurants is made available for training.

These kinds of activities will be a spur to management techniques in the future.