A Splendid Array of Unique Dishes at Gonpachi
Gonpachi
134 N. La Cienega Blvd.
Beverly Hills, Ca 90211-2207
(310) 659-8887
The attendant opened my car door and I alighted to find an imposing Japanese style gate towering over me. It was a gate just like the ones set before ancient temples. In front of that was a gourd-shaped Japanese chochin lanterns with “Gonpachi” written on them as if to say, “Welcome to Gonpachi World” with a warm reception. Within the gate a fairytale
My eye wandered over a lotus pond spanned by a Japanese bridge, stone lanterns and a stone mill amidst lush greenery with the gentle sound of running water. Advancing along a stone walkway, I entered a large building in the style of an olden Japanese warehouse. It had a chic feeling imbued with the charm of traditional Japanese construction. I was struck by the sense that other than Gonpachi there is no other restaurant that produces this understated atmosphere of wonder.
General Manager Sagawa Kiyoshi led the way to the main dining room. Looking past the bichotan charcoal sumiyaki grilling bar in the front of the room, there was a central garden-like space surrounded by balcony seating. Casting a glance up to the second floor balcony, I felt like I was in a time warp. I imagined that I could see fashionable people from old
Well then, I took a close look at the menu to see what treats to savor as I enjoyed a sake tasting. Tapas-style appetizers, charcoal grilled dishes, soba noodles, tempura, sushi and rice dishes, all at moderate prices were arrayed in a tempting variety. I was overwhelmed with thinking of it all when Kiyoshi offered the Tasting Menu. It had just been created a week before and features two kinds of chef’s selection omakase courses, the sushi course ($58) and regular course ($35). There were so many things on the menu that seemed delicious, so in the end the order was a omakase sushi course and two or three single dished that would be shared by two of us.
Dish 1: Three Kinds of Chef’s Japanese Tapas (Tasting Menu)
A wooden case decorated with pink plum blossoms containing three ceramic dishes was brought. Pulling out the drawers from the top there was duck, gobo burdock root and lotus kinpira and roasted bintoro, all in generous portions. The chilled duck meat was tender and had a rich taste that perfectly matched daiginjo sake. The kinpira was satisfying to the bite and with a spiciness that hit home, a crisp taste fitting for summer. Roasted bintoro was prepared with mayonnaise sauce, jalapenos and dried garlic that gives texture to the enjoyable taste.
Duck Kinpira Roasted bintoro
Best pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bissuikan” Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi” Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Next best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura” Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo” Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
Dish 2: Shrimp Shinjo-age and Seasonal Steamed Vegetables (Tasting Menu)
Creamy minced shrimp are wrapped up in crunchy harusame noodle and deep-fried. The soft gentleness is complimented with a spicy sauce. A dish one wants a second helping of. The Seasonal Steamed Vegetables were spouts and baby corn mini-vegetables mixed with red peppers and sweet potatoes to make a brightly colored salad.
Shrimp Shinjo-age Seasonal Steamed Vegetables
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Ginjo “Akita Toji”
Next best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”, Tokubetsul Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Dish 3: Sumiyaki Bar: Muneniku (Chicken breast and okra), Tsukune (Minced Chicken and Duck) and Strawberry Tomato (Tasting Menu)
These are three varieties from the sumiyaki grilling bar that uses binchotan charcoal. Juicy breast of chicken delicately seasoned with salt and served with okra that brightens one’s mood. The chicken and duck tsukune is enwrapped in the binchotan an aroma that makes it extraordinarily delicious. The strawberry tomatoes are slightly charred with the centers luscious and with a sweet juice.
Muneniku Tsukune Strawberry Tomato
Best: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”, Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Next: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui” Daiginjo Genshu “Bissuikan”, Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 4: Grilled King Crab (Tasting Menu)
The main choices on the menu are Japanese-style Wagyu Rib-Eye Steak or King Crab.
This time I selected the crab. High quality crab is served in a fine-grained wooden dish. The binchotan roasting makes it a gorgeous delicacy.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Special Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
Dish 5: Edo-mae Sushi (Tasting Menu)
Maguro tuna, hamachi yellowtail, salmon, hotate scallops and shrimp were the five selections served. After enjoying the appetizers, the sumiyaki grilled selections, the King Crab and izakaya pub fare (tapas), the appearance of these choice sushi pieces was welcome.
Hamachi Maguro Hotate
Salmon, Shrimp
Best: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”, Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
Next: Ginjo “Akita Toji”, Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi", Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 6: Inaka Seiro Soba (Soba noodles serve chilled) (Tasting Menu)
The last item on the Tasting Menu is Gonpachi’s pride and joy, the soba noodles handmade on the premises. In a room with a plate glass near the entrance, one can see a dynamic performance of the soba noodles being stretched and thrown as they are made. The freshly made taste is enjoyable.
Best pairing:Ginjo “Akita Toji”
Next best pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
Dish 7: Japanese-style Wagyu Rib-Eye Carpaccio $18.00.
Thinly sliced rib-eye steak is placed in an arrangement as pretty as a picture. This carpaccio is lightly seasoned with vinegar for a nice summer taste.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 8: Gindara Marinated & Grilled Black Cod $12.50.
This is a heaping helping of gindara with green peas in their pods and eggplant on the side. The sweetly delicious gindara is offset by the mineral flavors of the eggplant for a good balance in which each compliments the other.
Best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bissuikan”
Dish 9: Takana Meshi Rice with Pickled Mustard Leaves Served in a Hot Stone Bowl $6.95
Takana meshi is brought by the server in a hot stone bowl into which the server ladles rice. The presentation is unique while the flavors of the takana and sesame seeds with salt seasoning are refreshing in this stylish dish.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 10: Toasted Rice Ball and Cooked Salmon in Dashi Soup Stock $7.25
This is a toasted onigiri rice ball drenched as is in dashi broth and heaped with salmon and slices of nori seaweed. Although I was quite full by this point, the Japanese character piqued my appetite and I enjoyed it.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Next best pairing: Daiginjo “Fuku Komachi”
Dish 11: Pumpkin Zenzai Sweet Red Bean Paste, Vanilla Ice Cream, Pumpkin Sauce, Shiratama and Topped with Almond Slivers, served chilled (Tasting Menu). This dessert is included on the Tasting Menu. An adorable vermilion bowl is presented with zenzai wrapped in pumpkin cream. The zenzai was packed with red bean paste and shiratama but the pumpkin cream gave it a Continental flavor. Truly delicious. This unique dessert will draw female customers and is a satisfying finish to the meal.
Dish 12: Gonpachi Dorayaki Japanese Pancake Sandwich with Summer Berries, Sweet Red Bean Paste and Whipped Cream, served with Green Tea Ice Cream $6.50. The dorayaki Japanese pancake is stamped with the Gonpachi seal to show that it is made on the premises. The Japanese pastry has a little bit of Continental flavor about it and it is quite delicious.
The Gonpachi theme is matsuri or festival. Music with Japanese instruments such as matsuri taiko drums, other taiko drums and shamisen stringed instruments as the main elements reverberate through the dining area and transform it into an enjoyable outdoors festival. The space above one’s head is filled with ropes on which Japanese chochin lanterns are hung and one can see points of light smoldering. In alcoves on the second floor balcony there is lighting that illuminates the area so that the sky above is pitch dark. There is a feeling of freedom that is unique in a luxurious izakaya pub that is priceless.
Added to that is the kindness and courtesy of Kiyoshi and the professional and friendly service of Alexandar, which makes an evening at Gonpachi go by in a flash.
Just before leaving, I explored the back of the restaurant on the right side. There was a sushi bar there and unlike the lighting outside of this area, it was bright here, with a wide open space and a counter in the form of a semi-circle. One can enjoy sushi by the order or try the chef’s selection omakase course ($95).
Besides this, there are tatami mat rooms and a full service bar. On the wall there was a sign that said that the capacity is 255, but I was told that in reality 300 may be accommodated. From 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm there is Happy Hour and one can also have a sake tasting. In the future as well, Gonpachi will be delighting customers with its unique style of service and hospitality. Here’s a toast to the birth of an izakaya pub offering an entertaining ambience!
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