Wakasanchi Open for Guests

1929 Westwood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90025
(310) 446-5241


This time, I was really looking forward to trying an Omakase course meal. I drove in a happy mood down Santa Monica Boulevard, turned onto Westwood Boulevard, and arrived at Wakasanchi in no time at all. Since street parking was full, I parked at the adjacent parking lot. Parking is free on Sundays, and it is a flat rate of $2.00 on weekdays, which is quite helpful.
Wakasanchi is a rare izakaya-style restaurant that serves an Omakase course - something only a few people know about. The policy regarding the Omakase course at Wakasanchi is posted at the entrance. The Omakase course consists of whatever fresh seasonable dishes the chef decides to select. No substitutes or exceptions are allowed.
I first heard about this restaurant by word of mouth and this time marked my third visit. If I could, I would like to visit here every day to enjoy a light and simple meal. The food is home-style fare, but the taste is widely recognized. It is owner Hiroaki Wakasugi’s dream restaurant. Wakasugi was the founder of “Edokko,” in Burbank, which has grown rapidly since its founding 25 years ago. His original career is architecture and he has been involved in consulting on all aspects of the restaurant, including not only the management, but also the construction and design of the restaurant as well. He wanted to get away from doing only restaurant management, which is heavily reliant on profit, and this is the restaurant he dreamed up and opened on January 4, 2005.
It was raining unfortunately, but two couples were already waiting before the restaurant opened. The couples arrived early because the restaurant doesn’t take reservations for only two guests. The meal began at the counter of the open kitchen.
In front of me, there was a refrigerated neta (raw material) case- one meter long, one meter wide - which reminded me of the fish stores in Japan. A lot of fresh materials covered with ice caught my eyes. Not only was there fish like black rockfish (sebastes inermis), halibut, oyster, flatfish, and amberjack; but also pork, skewered scallions, and ground chicken - all of which appeared to be quite fresh.
Five minutes after it opened for business, the restaurant was full. Managing the kitchen alongside Wakasugi is Masahiro Nishikawa, an authentic Japanese chef who trained in Japan. He is the central figure in providing the high-quality taste of the Omakase course meal.

Dish 1: Cooked Spinach Mustard (Komatsuna Nibitashi) – The spinach mustard is full of refined sauce, fried tofu, and mushrooms, and is a starter that makes diners comfortable. It is pleasing to see that a lot of bonito flakes are used.
Best pairing: Tokubetsu Honjo “Tsukiyo”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”

Dish 2: Lotus Root & Gobo Root Kimpira – The crispy lotus root on the light green ceramic-type plate reminds me of the good old days. The gobo root, konnyaku, sesame, and chili pepper combine to make a very sharp taste.
Best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 3: Monkfish Liver – This dish consists of three pieces of thickly sliced monkfish. It feels very smooth in the mouth. It is partaken with ponzu sauce and grated daikon radish with chili. Very refreshing.
Best pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”
2nd pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”  

Dish 4: Cooked Okra and Shiitake Mushrooms – This dish is flavored with ground black sesame, and the smooth texture of the okra and the texture of the mushrooms match together well.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 5: Teriyaki Ono – The Spanish mackerel is cooked with mirin and sake, and is a delicious sight for the eyes. One of the favorite items for sake drinkers, the tender meat of the fish is soaked well in soy sauce.
Best pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”

Dish 6: Vinegared King Crab – This is a high-quality item that is cut into bite-sized pieces in order to be eaten easily. It comes with an excellent vinegar sauce that I wanted to drink in order not to leave behind.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
Dish 7: Three Kinds of Sashimi - The fresh sliced fish items are arranged very colorfully, and I ate them all with gusto.

Amberjack
Best pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”
2nd pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”

Tuna
Best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
2nd pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
Octopus
Best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”
2nd pairing: Junmai Nigori “Hadare Yuki”

Dish 8: Simmered Sardine with Ginger Flavor – The sweet soy-based sauce soaks all the way to the fish bones and it mixes well with the bitterness of the entrails of the fish. The ginger flavor tastes quite good.
Best pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
2nd pairing: Ginjo “Akita Toji”

Dish 9: Deep-Fried Shrimp – The hot and crispy fried batter is very appetizing. The shredded cabbage, accompanied by a sauce of mayonnaise with lemon, is quite healthy.
Best pairing: Tokubetsu Honjozo “Tsukiyo”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Mune no Uchi”

Dish 10: Beef Fillet Bowl and Root Vegetable Miso Soup – This is a “no fat” beef fillet rice bowl. I’m grateful for the mini-sized portion. There are many vegetables such as daikon radish, burdock root, and carrots, which warm up the body.

Dish 11: Chawanmushi – This is the last item of the Omakase course meal. It looks gorgeous on the big plate. The eggs that melted in my mouth induced relaxation and comfort.

The ending of the highly satisfying Omakase course was green tea ice cream. I had a feeling of satisfaction running through my body from all of the dishes from the beginning until the end. From this year, the price has gone up $5.00 to become $35.00, but I am happy that the course included rice bowl. It still feels as though it is reasonably priced. After all, Nishikawa himself goes to the market every day to buy ingredients for the Omakase course.
Besides the Omakase course, the restaurant also has a popular menu and a menu of “today’s specials.” There are a wide variety of menu items available such as Ramen, Beef Tongue, Oden, Fried Yam, Giant Clams Wrapped in Seaweed, and Grated Yam over Barley. The restaurant also has many kinds of sake and shochu.
On the wall at the counter, there is calligraphy written by Wakasugi: “ I have nothing but defects, but many people still love me.” It comforts me maybe because these words are from a person who has experienced a lot in his life. The message on the T-shirts that serve as staff uniforms are unique: “Be Patient All the Time,” “Leave me Alone,” and “Enough Already.” The chefs and waiters/waitresses wear the T-shirts of their choice. When I asked if there was any particular reason for wearing the shirts, the reply was, “Just for fun.” I wonder if I’m the only one who lets go of stress when I see those T-shirts. The shirts are available for $18.00; the top seller is “Leave me Alone.”
This is a restaurant where we can actually feel that they serve food that is good for the body. Not only can we feel satisfaction from the delicious taste; we can also be satisfied that we are actually eating food that is healthy. It has now been three years since Wakasanchi first opened. Eighty percent of the customers are Japanese. From now on, perhaps more Americans who are particular about taste and quality will visit the restaurant. And I hope this restaurant is representative of the restaurants that will open in our community in the future.

Waka-san: Thank you for the heart-warming cuisine.


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