Yabu
Phone: 310-854-0400
521 N. La Cienega Blvd.
W. Hollywood, CA 90048
La Cienega Boulevard is famous for being Restaurant Row. As if they are in competition with one another, famous restaurants have built new establishments at the northern end of this street. Almost all are the type of buildings where a full-scale wall completely cuts off contact with the outside world. Heading towards the south end, on one corner of La Cienega quietly stands the sign for Yabu.
Kiyotaka Ikuno, known by all as “Okyo”, opened Yabu ten years ago. Following Sushi House (1980) and Yabu in West LA (1992), it is his third restaurant. Okyo is a chef and businessman, and he manages the popular, unique restaurants: The sushi bar Sushi House has the sounds of reggae flowing through it; West LA Yabu features handmade buckwheat soba and a la carte dishes; and this West Hollywood location serves authentic Japanese cuisine.
The street parking was already full at seven o’clock, so my companion and I pulled up to the valet parking at the front. A gentle lighting spills into the front area, which has the appearance of being like a cottage-style home in a resort area; and peering through the large glass window at the dining scene inside gives me a great sense of warmth.
We entered the restaurant through the noren, or shop curtain. Voices of “Welcome!” are heard from all over. In spite of being busy and with a sincere nod of appreciation, the stylish Okyo comes out from behind the sushi counter to meet me in a white Japanese-style hat and Japanese-style clothes.
With his customary smile General Manager Tsuyoshi Kawada walked over and escorted me to a seat that looked out onto a courtyard. Behind us stands a thicket of bamboo, and the fire from the fireplace in front gives off a pleasant feeling. The innumerable fresh flowers of the large, double-flowered cherry blossoms are in full bloom and they seem as if they are piled on top of one another. It is a lovely opportunity for “flower viewing”…I am deeply impressed.
Tsuyoshi immediately brought out a dish of sunomono, or pickles. It was difficult to make selections from the abundant menu, so when he suggested dishes that go well with sake, we were grateful that he came to our rescue.
Dish 1: Monkfish Liver Paste $7.50
The attractive, half moon-shaped monkfish is served with generous portions of seaweed and Japanese cucumber and is marinated with ponzu sauce. When partaken with grated daikon radish and chili and green onions, one can feel the unique taste of the monkfish spreading in the month gently. I enjoyed the exquisite taste of the monkfish while sipping genmai genshu, or undiluted sake from brown rice.
Best pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
Dish 2: Six Kinds of Assorted Sashimi $50.00
With this well-selected sashimi, all I could say was, “fantastic!” As I ate the red sea bream from Amakusa, Japan - with a little bit of pepper and yuzu – the delicate, refined taste of the sea bream stood out. The sweet shrimp from Santa Barbara is so fresh it looks as if it would jump up off the plate right away. The mirugai, or geoduck clams, are from Oregon and they show their freshness with a curled up posture. The amberjack from Kagoshima is fatty and has a chewy texture. The tuna from the Mediterranean Sea is beautiful like prosciutto, or dry-cured ham. The Sea Urchin & Halibut Roll includes Japanese basil and is a dish of much dignity.
Best pairing and 2nd pairing
Red Sea Beam: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”
Sweet Shrimp: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”, Tokubetsu Hon Jouzou “Tsukiyo”
Trough Shell: Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”, Daiginjou “Fukukomachi”
Amberjack: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Ginjou “Akita Toshi”
Tuna: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”, Genmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
Sea Urchin & Halibut Roll: Junmai Nama Nigori “Hadare Yuki”, Daiginjou “Fukukomachi”
Dish 3: Broiled King Crab with Sea Urchin Spread $15.00
The light-colored Broiled King Crab is served elegantly on an antique lacquerware plate.
When I look carefully, I see that a lot of sea urchins cover the king crab. The crab is gorgeously arranged with the sweetness of the sea urchin and the savory flavor of the soy sauce.
Best pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
Dish 4: Fried Shrimp & Yam Wrapped with Seaweed $8.50
I fully enjoyed this fried dish with plenty of mild flavored tempura sauce that is full of grated daikon radish. The hot, fried shrimp wrapped with the soft grated yam popped in my mouth. This is a delightful treat in which I could enjoy the Japanese flavor.
Best pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
2nd pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 5: Roasted Ginkgo Nuts $8.50
The plump, round Gingko Nuts with boiled salt were served on Japanese washi paper.
The simple dish provided a break from the previous sophisticated dishes, and I marveled at the natural ripening of the nuts.
Best pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
2nd pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 6: Broiled Sablefish (Black Cod) Marinated with Miso & Yuzu Sauce $12.50
The yuzu flavor marinates well into the core of the thick black cod. I am able to enjoy the feeling of how the fresh black cod goes smoothly along my tongue.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”
Dish 7: Kumamoto Oysters $14.50
The smaller sized Kumamoto oysters shine on the ice. If you squeeze lemon over the oysters before eating them with ponzu sauce, you will be smacking your lips in anticipation.
Best pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
2nd pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 8: Steamed Duck Seiro Soba $14.50
This is one of the signature dishes at Yabu. The soba is made by hand everyday at the West LA branch. I had to take may hat off to the shiny and perfectly textured soba noodles. The full-bodied soup is replete with tender duck and green onions. The well-soaked soba noodles match well with the best daiginjou sake.
Best pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”
2nd pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
Dish 9: Sea Beam Chazuke $14.50
It was exciting to have the quivering sea bream for the Sea Bream Chazuke placed in front of me. The scorched part of the rice is arranged in the center of the large bowl and the sea beam is placed carefully on the top. From a small earthenware container, I carefully poured the broth on the top of the rice. Seaweed and Japanese Wild Parsley float on top. I add wasabi, and it is ready to eat. Using chopsticks, I slurp the soup into my mouth. I appreciated this soup in which we can enjoy the original taste of the ingredients. This is the perfect dish for the end of the “cherry blossom viewing party.”
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
Although it is a Wednesday night, after seven o’clock the restaurant is full and the atmosphere lively. A homelike air fills every corner of the interior. The couple at the next table is also proceeding with an enjoyable dinner while making a toast with sake. In the relaxed atmosphere, we were able to have an enjoyable time while casually conversing with the guests at neighboring tables.
I have a feeling there is something steadfast in the cuisine of Yabu. When I inquire about the motto of Yabu, the reply given is “Japanese taste.” Yabu’s cuisine makes the best use of its ingredients. When diners partake of the cooking, they subconsciously feel a sense of gratitude to the ingredients. And guests can somehow feel how the chefs set a high value on the actual meaning of “Japanese taste,” which originates from appreciating the blessings of nature. It is becoming the daily routine of Okyo and Tsuyoshi to go out to the morning market every day. Not only are ingredients found at the morning market, but also the cherry blossoms for flower viewing are found there as well. I am impressed by how the spirit of treating guests warmly is applied on a daily basis.
About the time my stomach and heart became full at this “flower viewing party,” an unexpected plate of gorgeous fruit is served. Honeydew melon, orange, strawberry… the fresh fruit satisfies even a full stomach. After that, Tsuyoshi brought “Cream Brule.”
I was full, but when I heard this was a special version of Tsuyoshi’s recipe, I dug in with my spoon. A gentle deliciousness spread out fully in my mouth, and I am treated to a fine encore at the end of a sumptuous meal.
Although the hurdles are high, Yabu is faithful to “Japanese taste,” and in order to offer a feeling of satisfaction to one more - or many more – Americans; by all means, I hope to see a fourth Yabu restaurant.
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