Kappo Ishito
123 Onizuka Street, #302
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 626-1509

Kappo Ishito
123 Onizuka Street, #302
Los Angeles, CA 90012
(213) 626-1509

It is 7:45 p.m. when I anxiously leave the car in the underground parking lot of Weller Court in Little Tokyo, downtown Los Angeles. I am 15 minutes late. I hurry to get on the elevator and push the button for the third floor.
A mere minute later I am standing in front of the noren, or entry curtain, of Kappo Ishito. Thankful for the parking being so easy, I take a deep breath and pass through the noren.
The spaciously partitioned counter that faces the open kitchen has warm lighting and helps to provide an orderly interior. My companion and I sit in two seats that have been reserved at the end of the counter, and warm, moist hand towels are quickly brought to us. Dressed handsomely in a kimono, Ishito-san, the owner-chef, welcomes us with a cordial greeting.
To speak of Kappo Ishito, the words “uncompromising quality” come to mind. And I am looking forward to finding out what kind of “uncompromising quality” I will encounter this evening. Actually, I have a secret plan for tonight: I will try to get some sake tasting tips from Ishito-san, who is an authority on sake.
The first item of tonight’s “Makase Course” is brought out.
Unexpectedly, it is warm soba. Ishito-san waits until the soba passes down my throat, and then says, “When you put something warm in your stomach first, the sake then becomes familiar to the body, and is delicious.” And indeed, it is just a mouthful, but the warm feeling of the soba going down the throat warms the body. It feels like my body is perfectly prepared for any sake.
A few minutes later Ishito-san picks up something or other with his chopsticks and murmers, “Did you bring any cheap sake?” It seems as if he is looking for some sake to warm up. For tonight’s tasting, he chooses tokubetsu honjouzou “Tsukiyo,” which is not cheap sake, but is nevertheless suitable for use as heated sake. “I will make kotsuzake, made with the bones of fugu [blowfish],” Ishito-san says. Believe it or not, the fugu bones are dried in the sun for ten days before they are placed in heated sake and served. The “bone sake” comes in a tin cup, and with the harmonization of the sweetness of the sake and the aroma of the fugu, it is transformed into great-tasting sake. It is highly prized in Japan as “lucky sake.” Preparing heated sake with the fragrance of the fugu—something rare in Japan—is the opening act of tonight’s sake tasting, and I can only say that I am impressed. Perhaps Ishito-san is already wise to my secret plan and is willingly going along with it.

Omakase 12-piece Course $85.00
Dish 1: Bite-sized Soba
About a mouthful of soba is submerged in broth and lightly topped with minced green onions and shredded seaweed. Even if soba is standard fare, when this amount is served in a small white bowl, it is as if I am encountering something fresh.
Best pairing: Junmai “Chikaramizu”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”

Dish 2: Kelp with Herring Roe
Four pieces of thin kelp with fine herring roe are presented on a shiso leaf and wakame, and topped with thinly sliced carrots. The flavor is, of course, Ishito-style. The luxurious flavor can be thoroughly enjoyed. Ishito-san says this dish goes well with all kinds of daiginjo sake.
Best pairing: Genmai Daiginjo “Kimura’
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 3: Toro Grilled on a Single-side
“This dish also goes well with daiginjo,” says Ishito-san helpfully. Two pieces of fatty belly toro are arranged colorfully on a bright green plate. I partake of the dish with salt and wasabi. The sweet full-bodied fatty tuna matches wonderfully well with daiginjo sake.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”

Dish 4: Kanburi Yellowtail Sashimi
Two big pieces of shiny silver fish—one from the belly and one from the back—are presented in the center of a sparkling plate. Alongside is a mixed condiment of wasabi and grated daikon radish. Recognized as “The Champion of the Ocean,” the kanburi has a deliciousness that allows for no complaints. The taste of the “Champ” also goes well with daiginjo.
Best pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”

Dish 5: Carpaccio-style Alfonsino
The red color of the alfonsino is reminiscent of the setting sun. Three pieces of green onion are rolled in with the alfonsino and all is placed in an orange-colored deep bowl. The alfonsino is, of course, fresh, and the green onions are crunchy like cucumber. Although it is done carpaccio-style, it has a mildly sour taste. I understand why when I hear the surprising news that Ishito-san is using 14 year-old ponzu sauce. Not unexpectedly, Ishito-style carpaccio is quite unique. “This dish goes well with junmai sake served at room temperature,” says Ishito-san.
Best pairing: Karakuchi Junmai “Shunraika”
2nd pairing: Ginjo “Akita Touji”

Dish 6: Cuttlefish Sashimi
Three pieces of thick cuttlefish from Japan covered ugonori are placed in the flower patterned small bowl with legs. The cuttlefish is chewy and sweet. I enjoyed it with wasabi and soy sauce. Ugonori is “salted rock seaweed.” It is low in calories and filled with minerals. Daiginjo, naturally, is the best choice to draw out the deliciousness of the cuttlefish.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 7: Pot-steamed Hotchpotch with Matsutake Mushrooms
The dish was served in a large, beautifully patterned, covered bowl. When I excitedly open the cover, the aroma of the matsutake mushrooms comes out. The colorful yellow custard is evidence that it is made with eggs from free-range chicken. The thin layer of sauce on the surface is very appetizing. Matsutake mushrooms, honeywort, sea bass, free-range chicken, shrimp, and gingko comprise the pot-steamed hotchpotch. This is a favorite dish of mine and I have tried it at many restaurants, but Ishito-san’s rendition is extraordinary.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 8: Botargo Wrapped with Cutlass Fish
Two pieces of botargo are wrapped with cutlass fish on a bamboo leaf, and placed on an earthen-colored square plate. The skin of the cutlass fish shines like foil and the botargo is like ruby jewels wrapped in the white meat of cutlass fish. With the addition of the pink Japanese ginger, the dish is like a work of jewelry art. I thoroughly enjoyed the homemade myoga ginger. It is to be appreciated that this dish can be enjoyed with a wide range of sake from daiginjo to junmai.
Best pairing: Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”
2nd pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”

Dish 9: Simmered Dish of Shogoin Radish and Fried Crab Cake
When I eyed the basketball-sized radish on the counter I was quite surprised. Ishito-san said proudly, “This is a Shogoin radish from Kyoto. It’s very delicious.” I finally encounter a dish made from it when I nervously straighten my back to hold a bowl handed to me from over the counter. The bowl has a pattern of wild grass with gold flecks on a beige-colored base. When I gently open the lid, the fragrance of a nostalgic Japanese dish comes out. Two pieces of Shogoin radish and fried crab cake are in the clear broth. Okura is arranged in the center as a colorful accent. The radish is so tender it seems as if it could melt. Basically this radish doesn’t have many fibers; it is pre-cooked with water used to rinse rice in order to remove them. The crab cake is made from paste and deep-fried. This is an extremely rare dish in Los Angeles.
Best pairing: Ginjo “Akita Touji”
2nd pairing: Daiginjo “Fukukomachi”

Dish 10: Steamed Alfonsino in Blowfish Dashi Broth
This dish features the previously mentioned alfonsino—only it is steamed. It consists of steamed alfonsino, tofu, and Chinese cabbage on Rausu kombu seaweed topped with blowfish dashi broth. The dish is then enjoyed with chili, grated daikon radish and ponzu sauce. The alfonsino has a soft texture. The silken tofu is from Japan and is known as fukutofu or “lucky tofu.” I took great pleasure in finishing all of the delicious ingredients.
Best pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui”
2nd pairing: Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”
Dish 11: Three Pieces of Sushi: Akagai, Magochi, Sea Urchin

Ishito-san asks me what kind of rice dish I like. I wonder what to eat since I am already full. I finally decide to have sushi and asked him for his recommendation. The akagai is still alive when it is made into sushi. I experience akagai that is this fresh for the first time. Magochi is rare and highly esteemed sushi in Japan. The half-transparent flesh seems to have threads of light running through it. When partaken with salt it is quite refreshing. The unique texture is slightly rough but the taste is first-rate. The sweet and tender sea urchin is an exquisite piece of work.
AKAGAI MAGOCHI SEA URCHIN
Best pairing: Junmai Genshu “Akita Issui” Junmai Daiginjo “Kimura”, Daiginjo Genshu “Bisuikan”
2nd pairing:Daiginjo “Fukukomachi” Tokubetsu Junmai “Munenouchi”, Junmai Daiginjo “Kumura”

While I had sushi, my companion ordered salmon roe bowl. A shiso leaf, a good amount of shiny salmon roe, and freshly grated ginger are served atop sushi rice. I am thankful for Ishito’s thoughtfulness in listening to guests and serving the things we want to eat. While being impressed by Ishito’s “uncompromising quality,” I continued to be amazed by the taste.
In each dish, “uncompromising quality” goes well beyond the choice of tableware and his selection of delicious ingredients. The water used in the restaurant, for example, is filtered by passing through more than five different pumps. Moreover, the water in the open kitchen’s water-jug goes through ?yet another purification system. In addition, the above-mentioned ponzu sauce, as well as the soy sauce and other sauces, are all entirely homemade, and are used for more than ten years.
Ishito-san is, of course, also quite particular about the soup stock. He continues to demand a high level of quality without sparing any efforts for flavors such as kombu, bonito, and sesame. Nevertheless, Ishito-san doesn’t convey the feeling that he is a strong willed person who would “never allow compromise.” Perhaps it’s because of his mild manner; but also—because he likes cooking so much—he finds that insisting on “uncompromising quality” is, in fact, a natural attitude.
Ishito-san pays great attention to the taste of the original ingredients. And the dishes are presented quite nicely. The result, therefore, is an impressive, yet easy-on-the-body feast. No wonder Ishito-style homemade food is poised to draw more and more attention in the future.



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