Here and There - Fall Treats and Tidbits

by Andrea Rademan


NOBU MATSUHISA has conquered another continent, this time Australia, where he opened his first Nobu restaurant at Melbourne’s Crown Entertainment Complex, in a two-story space adjacent to the Yarra River. Including Matsuhisa and Ubon, this marks his 19th establishment. Nobu was founded in New York in 1994 with business partners that include Robert De Niro but that came years after training and working in Tokyo, Peru, and Tokyo again. He actually opened his first North American restaurant in Alaska. It was only after months of back-breaking labor to build it, and manning the kitchen around the clock, that he allowed himself a day off. That was the day the restaurant burned to the ground. Not one to give up, he eventually made his way to Los Angeles and worked at the sushi bar where we first tasted his creative cooking. In 1987 he put his name on the door of Matsuhisa, on La Cienega’s restaurant row. Angelenos went crazy for his warm olive oil over sashimi, yellowtail with red pepper, and squid “pasta” in garlic and butter. Lines were already out the door when De Niro stopped by and found that he couldn’t stay away. After they took Manhattan, they streaked across the globe to London and Las Vegas, Malibu, Milan and Miami Beach, Dallas, the Bahamas, and recently set down in Hong Kong and Hawaii. Nobu made homestyle Japanese black cod with miso as famous as his scallop tiradito, which he calls Nobu Style, cooking from the ‘Kokoro’ (heart). And heart is what this amazingly talented and ever modest chef is all about. When my friend, cookbook author, teacher, and lecturer, Carol Selva Rajah, came to visit from her home in Sydney, I brought her to Matsuhisa, hoping to show Nobu the galleys of her newest book, Heavenly Fragrance, though I doubted he’d even be in town. He was. One of the world’s most successful chefs was overseeing the hostess desk in his jam-packed restaurant. “My friend is waiting in the car. Would you mind if I bring her in to meet you?” I asked. He smiled at me with his customary boyish grin and the man who has never changed wives and never lost his humility, said, “I’ll come right out.” And he did. They chatted amiably until I dragged her away to another appointment. I’ll be seeing him again tonight at the American Wine and Food Festival that he participates in every year along with his good friend, another chef who came out of nowhere and took the world by storm, Wolfgang Puck.

Chef Danny Elmaleh (ex-Melisse and Lemon Moon), who was born in Israel and raised in Japan, attended the Culinary Institute of America, and cooked French food in Kobe and Italian food in Milan, knows a thing or two about fusion. The fruits of his global background are on the plate at CELADON GALERIE CULINAIRE (7910 W. 3rd St., Midtown, 323-658-8028), where his meant-to-share menu of worldly bites touches on the Middle East, North Africa, Europe and Asia. Louie Chang named his restaurant for the pale green of Chinese ceramics, and added bamboo staves, a glass water slide, orange dupioni silk, an ostrich egg chandelier, and rows of votive “candles” above a wall of comfortable booths.

We start with crudo, a kind of Italian sashimi, and tuna tartare “lollipops.” Hamachi citrus salsa is yellowtail topped with chiles and citrus. Original touches show up in the Vietnamese shrimp toast, dotted with black and white sesame seeds, the Chinese chicken salad made with crispy rice instead of wonton skins, and a hummus “parfait” with celery sticks. Japanese-Italian pork saltimbocca tonkatsu is thin slices of pork rolled with mozzarella and lightly fried. Steamed clams are kicked up with Thai bird chiles and Thai basil. Szechwan spicy noodles are tossed with peanuts and chiles. Saraudon sizzling noodles have a crust of crispy rice and a mix of bok choy, scallops and shrimp. Short ribs wear a plum glaze and grilled swordfish is garnished with grapefruit segments, greens and thickened yogurt. Grilled lamb sirloin comes with tabbouleh and tahini sauce and flat-iron steak comes with grilled cheese panini. End with black sesame custard with baby bananas, red bean custard tart, and a trio of crème brulee or chocolates that includes a miniature chocolate souffle.

Wine consultant David McDonald not only lists wines that pair perfectly with the food, he also put together a formidable sake list, several of which he sold at half price as he pared down the drink menu. One of the most inviting lounges in town provides a perfect setting for specialty cocktails such as the Sakura Breeze, the Tangerine Caipirihna, and his-and-her aphrodisiac cocktails. Even when the place is packed you can hear yourself think – and speak – until midnight on most nights.

It’s a bit easier to get to Thailand and, if you do, check out the sumptuous new gourmet fruit sorbets on Chef Aki’s menu at JW MARRIOTT BANGKOK’s popular Japanese Restaurant, TSU, Sorbet is the most popular dessert in Japan and Tsu is the only eatery that imports Lisse Fruits Sorbet directly from Frupara-Nikko Boueki, one of the few companies in Japan that make this delicacy. Varieties include Japanese Lemon, Japanese Orange, Apple, Peach and Pineapple, which come in the fruits of which they are made, and have no added sugar or artificial flavors. Chef Aki also teaches Japanese cooking classes in Japanese and English. He studied at the Chef School in Tokyo and worked there and in New York, Costa Mesa (OOISO), Newport Beach (California Beach), Irvine (Metropolis), and as Head Chef at the famous Wasabi Sabi Restaurant in Hong Kong, before moving to Thailand. Info: 1-800-359-4827 or res.jwthailand@marriotthotels.com .

KABOOM is the first USDA certified organic energy juice. Formulas by Wyck Hay, cofounder of Celestial Seasonings, contain no preservatives or carbonation. It is made with natural guarana, green tea extract, and b-complex vitamins, with folic acid for hours of clean-burning energy rather than a crash-and-burn rush. Kaboom’s premium grade Guarana converts to a form of energy similar to caffeine. Green Tea Extract contains 40% polyphenols (antioxidants with anti-cancer properties). The natural B-Vitamins are said to prevent hangovers when mixed with alcohol. Flavors include: POM (Filtered water, organic apple, pomegranate, strawberry, pear, elderberry concentrates), organic erythrtol, natural pomegranate and raspberry flavors, and citric acid; ORANGE BUZZZZ (a taste of orange); and TROPICOOL (mango, guava and oranges). Info: www.kaboomenergy.com

October 6 “NoHo Scene” - North Hollywood’s unique Arts District is home to over 30 theaters, dance and music studios, and art galleries. This celebration of the arts offers free theater, dance and music performances; art exhibits; film screenings; workshops; promotions from local restaurants and businesses; and a performance by Shane Sparks of “So You Think You Can Dance?” Double Decker buses and an outdoor stage with adjacent food and wine garden. INFO: www.nohoartsdistrict.com or (818) 980-NoHo (6646).

Martial Arts Master MASAYUKI SHIMABUKURO, author of Katsu Jin Ken: Living Karate, was on the cover and featured in a recent issue of Black Belt Magazine, which also named him to their Hall of Fame as “2006 Weapons Instructor of the Year.” He presented his best-selling book, “Flashing Steel: Mastering Eishin-Ryu Swordsmanship” and the 7 volume DVD set “Shito-Ryu Karate” along with a demonstration of Japanese swordsmanship (matcutting) at the Pacific Asia Museum (46 N. Los Robles Ave, Pasadena; 626-449-2742. October 14 LECTURE “Veranda: In Between Space - Life of a Buddhist Monk” Zen Buddhist priest and artist HIRAKAZU KOSAKA will give a brief overview of the various schools of Buddhism, then share what it means to be a Zen Buddhist priest and how it impacts his life as an artist, gallery director, and family man. Free with admission. Ext. 31.  Oct. 20. Fundraiser: Pacific Asia  Museum’s 30th annual “Festival of the Autumn Moon.” This year the theme of the gala is “The Silk Road.” Ext. 28.

October 20 – 28 The TOKYO FILM FESTIVAL opens with Midnight Eagle, directed by Izuru Narushima and starring Takao Osawa, Yuko Takeuchi and Hiroshi Tamaki, a thriller about a stealth bomber, “Midnight Eagle,” that disappears in the North Alpine, carrying a bomb that could wipe out Japan… Three billion yen went into the Japan-Italy- Canada co-production of SILK, the closing film, which is based on a best selling romance by Italian novelist, Alessandro Baricco, directed by Francois Girard, and stars Michael Pitt, Keira Knightley, Koji Yakusho and Miki Nakatani. The “Special Screenings” section will show three works by Ray Harryhausen and the Japan-China Friendship 35th Anniversary Memorial Film, Crossing Over, director Jin Chen’s epic true story of an imprisoned man (Kiichi Nakai) and woman Miao Pu who find each other and enduring love. At press time Program Director, Kazuo Kuroi, had not yet announced the full slate of films, none of which have yet been shown in Japan and 16 of which will vie for the “Tokyo Sakura Grand Prix.” The program includes: “Winds of Asia–Middle East” (an exchange program); “Japanese Eyes” (films from Europe and America that are set in Tokyo); “animecs TIFF 2007” (animations); Nippon Cinema Classics; the International Women’s Film Festival; and the Tokyo China Film Festival, which marks the 35th anniversary of normalized diplomatic relations between Japan and China, part of “Japan China culture and sports exchange year.”

Who can forget the mouth-watering food scenes in director Ang Lee’s EAT DRINK MAN WOMAN that made you want to lick the screen? Well, from October 21 –29, Theresa Lin, TV and radio hostess and the person responsible for them, is leading a gourmet trip to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province and the hometown of the Panda. Visit one of the most celebrated mountains in China, an ancient retreat accessible only by cable car, and J Jiuzhaigou, a World Natural Heritage site called a “fairyland” for its fantastic views. Attend the only state run culinary institute in China, visit Wuliangye Winery and dine at the famous Hongxing Restaurant. Five star hotels, gourmet cuisine, airfare and most other expenses are just $2699.00. Info: Panda Travel; 626-281-1388.

In this 21st Century, we live in a changing world of music, Internet, food, and culture. With media so close to our lives, we forget the past – especially the history of a country.
Chatori Shimizu, age 15

You might want to put DATOHA on your travel itinerary if you read about this “more than just a country” at <http://www.datoha.bravehost.com/> . It’s a small independent state in North East Asia that shares a border with Russia, the People’s Republic of China, North Korea, and Japan. Food is distributed to its citizens weekly and obesity is rare. The healthy cuisine includes legendary herbs that some claim can cleanse cancer or any other disease. There’s little need to own a car because buses and subways are plentiful and there’s an undersea tunnel which connects Datoha and Japan. There is little unrest given that the ethnic origins of the Datohans is Chinese-Japanese-Western European-Middle Eastern-African-Latin American-Native American–Hawaiian-South East Asian. They happily celebrate their national holidays, which include New Years’ Day; Hot Noodle Day; Valentine’s Day; National Goblin’s Day; Elders Day; Tanabata; Summer Festival; Marble Day; and Great Awakening. Halloween was banned in 1985 because of the then rising crime rate, but the law will be abolished in 2012. In Datoha, anything that creates interest is considered art. The popular Homon Opera was greatly influenced by both the Noh drama of Japan and Chinese Opera. European opera arrived in the 1700s. But the 50,000 year old Datoha is not just a nation – “its a country beyond the universe,” says the creator of this fictional country, student Chatori Shimizu. He says: I’m from Osaka, Japan. My dad’s job brought me to Singapore. I was in second grade when I first thought about Datoha, my imaginary country. I drew maps, population charts, and more. In fifth grade I typed an 812 page “book” about Datoha but it wasn’t until 2005 that I made my website. I want to study computer, multi media and JAVA in the U.S. and someday make an animation about Datoha (I dream of being hired by Nintendo...). View his profile at www.chatoris.bravehost.com . Hey, Nintendo, you listening?


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