Mainstream
America Embraces Mochi Ice Cream
By:
Maria I. Ko (Dec. 2001)
American
shoppers at such mighty chain stores as Costco, Trader Joe's,
Ralph's and Pavilions are all set to meet the new sensation. This
one whets the fabled appetite for that long succession of
well-loved Japanese imports in the true tradition of sushi, the
all-American favorite. All previous indications are present and
unmistakable. Mochi Ice Cream is poised to take over the mainland
and all set to mainstream in a very imminent way!
Mochi…Mochi…Ice Cream, you say,
a little ambiguously as you deliciously let the syllables roll off
your tongue. O yeah! that very catching, new treat causing all the
commotion. No, not Nomo, or any of those subcompacts, or even a
new CD. Well, forget the head scratching! The people to set you
straight are right here in our own backyard. The Mikawaya
Bakery-Confectionery in the heart of downtown LA in Little Tokyo
are the giddy makers -- and originators -- of this arguably most
unique of concoctions ever to hit American shores.
Yes, Mikawaya's Mochi Ice Cream is
ready to hit the shelves of those omnipotent chain stores as it
homes in and takes its inevitable journey to the heart of
mainstream America!
Joel Friedman, officially the chief
financial officer/controller for the family-owned company and at
the same time a-once-and-future inventor in his more informal, but
no less active capacity for the same, is proud father all over
again as he admits that Mochi Ice Cream is indeed "his
baby." His other babe, his wife with whom he celebrates a
30th year anniversary this January! -- Frances Hashimoto --
Mikawaya president and scion of the clan who has owned the company
for 91 years since they acquired it in 1910, agrees
wholeheartedly.
It is really a marriage made in
heaven. Joel's and Frances' that is, and that of their most famous
and successful, albeit, self-styled yet joint product and novel
confection. In fact to point out that Mochi Ice Cream is a perfect
metaphor for
its owners' marriage is merely stating the obvious.
"Everybody told me it couldn't
be done," says Friedman. Hello…imagine the usual skeptics
telling him… that! To be sure, their misgivings were
well-founded. The job on hand called for combining a "hot
rice product and frozen ice cream," reminiscent of those
situations often described as "mixing water
and oil," driving Friedman's detractors to accuse him of
attempting to "defy the very laws of physics."
To arrive at a simple definition of
Mochi Ice Cream, it is necessary to call to mind the process of
making it. Mochi Ice Cream after all calls for, quite literally,
melding the traditional, well-loved Japanese delicacy or dessert
known as mochi -- and the classic American favorite, ice cream.
Hence, Mochi Ice cream…something in the order of the yukimi
daifuku already developed in Japan, in its rudimentary form one
could say.
EAST
MEETS WEST
So
to the uninitiated, it is a very good place to start. Mochi --
preferably -- is a very fine, exquisitely grained, chewy rice cake
dough. On the other hand, Mikawaya's Mochi Ice Cream is more
exactly a soft middle of impeccably, delicious ice cream nestled
inside the best mochi this side of Japan. So if you're thinking,
East meets West in the best of possible ways and that sort of
thing…well, you're exactly right!
But if you think that the process
simply involves sticking a scoop of ice cream in the middle of a
piece of mochi, well you're dead wrong! In fact, the evolution of
Mochi Ice Cream has come about over a painfully, slow period that
comes closer to 10 going-on 15 years. The quest to develop a novel
food product that would cross ethnic boundaries eventually took
more than a decade of experimentation and research and hundreds of
pounds of ingredients.
"The R & D (research and
development) time on it was a monster," admits Friedman.
Having already established a very solid reputation in the local
(nisei) community as a traditional Japanese bakery best known for
its rice cake and bean paste confections such as mochi and manju,
this time it seems Friedman set an almost impossible goal for
himself and Mikawaya. The task before them: come up with a new and
different food item that people of various ethnic origins and
nationalities regardless of their backgrounds and culture would
find pleasing to their diverse palates. So that the ensuing
verdict regardless would be: "Oishi (delicious)!"
But what was involved in
"doing it right" and in perfecting Mochi ice cream?
"We had to formulate an ice
cream specific to mochi." Friedman explains. Their starting
point was two distinct products which could be eaten and enjoyed
apart from each other. Combining the two meant developing them in
a way that they would complement each other, the mochi ending up
being flavored the same as the ice cream
and, finally, melding and fusing the two into one great dessert.
It has been said that the secret to this latest Japanese crossover
lies in its " authentic ice cream and solid mochi
texture." Eventually and after much of the same painstaking R
& D, Mochi Ice Cream flavors have now grown to a delectable
seven: strawberry, vanilla, mango, green tea, red bean, coffee and
chocolate.
THE
WORLD: MIKAWAYA'S OYSTER
What
transpired after, however, is hardly a secret. Mochi Ice Cream
proved to be the blockbuster seller of Mikawaya. "It caught
us by surprise," Friedman reveals. "The market took all
the mathematical calculations and threw them out of the window.
Our new product has (been doing) fantastically well…" The
first signs of burgeoning business forced the building of an
additional 10,000 square feet of warehouse floor space to its main
site of company operations in Little Tokyo.
Next order of the day was testing
the market in Hawaii where the new ice cream confection ate up all
the market projections and surpassed every expectation. After
that, formally debuting at the Bristol farms in Pasadena here in
Los Angeles was a no-brainer. Indeed the rest of this glorious
history is still being written, but this time closer to home. The
secret is out all right: Mochi Ice Cream has gone mainstream!
And after Ralph's, Trader Joe's,
Costco, etc…what next? It seems the world would be Mikawaya's
oyster after all!
Not bad for what started as a Mom
and Pop operation that had its origins with first generation issei.
Established in the early 1900's, it was then housed in its initial
location in East First Street and named after Mikawa, a town in
Aichi-ken, Japan where its original owners came from, plus the
word ya, Japanese for store or shop, hence Mikawa-ya. The first of
the clan, Ryuzaburo Hashimoto, Frances' father then bought the
operation in 1910 and the bakery/confectionery store has been in
the family since then.
In1925,Ryazaburo's nephew Koroku
and his wife, Haru, relocated to another address in First Street
and over the years have moved to various others in Little Tokyo
when Frances, herself, took over in 1970. There was a brief
interlude during the war years when Mikawaya experienced a short
interruption in service as the entire family was relocated to
Poston, Arizona. Postwar they returned next door to the site where
it overtook them. Years later in 1974 Frances opened new quarters
in Fourth Street where she thought redevelopment efforts would
take place in Little Tokyo, and built a factory there as well as
expanded their retail operations.
Marriage to Friedman in 1972 and
the birth of sons, Bryan (25) and Ryan (23), and many mochis
after, Mikawaya now boasts of five retail outlets: two in Little
Tokyo and one each in Gardena, Torrance and in the island of Kauai
in Hawaii.
BUILDING
A TRUE TRADITION OF INNOVATION
As Mikawaya's pioneering maven,
Hashimoto is really at her best elements. She is a veritable
posterwoman for her efforts as a Little Tokyo community leader
recently characterized by Councilwoman Jan Perry as
"surpassed by none." Among others Hashimoto has been
serving as Director for the Little Tokyo Business Association from
1974 to the present as well as the hugely successful and recently
concluded Nisei Week Japanese Festival since 1978. This community
activist has also been at the forefront of the Little Tokyo
Community redevelopment efforts serving on the Mayor's Advisory
Committee since 1980.
Very recently in July this year,
this former teacher by profession was honored with the prestigious
Japanese American Cultural Community Center Pacific Pioneer award
alongside notable local business entities such as Cushman Realty
and Sanwa Bank.
As for Mikawaya, its offerings to
the public began modestly with any of a variety of well-loved
Japanese sweets called wagashi. Major of these is what is known as
manju also made of mochi flour with sweet bean paste filling.
Manju for special occasions include a simple, white manju stamped
with a kiku or chrysanthemum on the outside eaten during Buddhist
funerals; a white or pink manju with a tsuru-kame (crane and
turtle) which is a felicitous symbol of long life popular at
weddings and other happy occasions; a kashiwa-mochi or manju
wrapped in oak leaf design symbolizing strength and used for Boy's
Day; and, finally, the sakura-mochi or manju wrapped in a cherry
blossom-leaf motif as well as a tri-colored (white, green and
pink) mochigashi clearly associated with Girl's Day.
Obviously it is not just the
store's physical operations that have been augmented over the
years. The husband-and-wife-team of Hashimoto and Friedman has
succeeded in securing for Mikawaya an unassailable reputation in
the local community built on the premium quality of their superb
family of traditional Japanese pastries. And then some. Their
combined innovativeness has also resulted in a genuinely, unique
line of products, one in particular -- Mochi Ice Cream -- which
actually seeks the true marriage of two cultures!
This is not just crossing over for
the sheer pleasure of it, but in Mikawaya's case -- and certainly
with that of Frances and Joel -- it is more about the hopes of
clarifying many-a-cliched boundaries and bridging these.
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