|
Sake, Sushi
and Fun For Everyone
Robert
J. Terry 7/2006
 An
All Japan Sake Tasting (the 24th Sushi and Sake Cooking
Club Special Event) was held on June 23rd in the Golden
Ballroom of the New Otani Hotel. More than 250 people attended,
making this sake tasting one of the most lively and successful of
the series. The Sushi Chef Institute provided sushi for the guests
and soba noodles and other dishes were also served. A great time
was had by all, and not a few people expressed the wish that more
such events were held.
“We always enjoy these sake tastings,”
said a lovely young lady who was attending the event with her
husband. “It’s an opportunity to taste many kinds of sake and the
different levels of quality. That is the really fascinating thing
about it. We learned a lot just today.
“The way this event has been organized
is wonderful,” she added enthusiastically. “We always learn
something new.”
Tsuchiya Keizo, the Chief Executive
Director of the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO), also
appeared to lend his support. He expressed delight at the turnout
and at how knowledgeable the attendees seemed to be. The following
remarks were printed under Mr. Tsuchiya’s name in the program of
the event.
“I would like to offer my heartfelt
congratulations at the holding of this All Japan Sake Tasting.
“From Japan’s distant past, sake has
been said to be a cure for whatever ails you. Using rice grown
locally, crystal clear water and yeast, the brewer’s art brings
out the best of the natural ingredients in the creative process.
Since it contains a variety of active elements, it is good for
both beauty and health. Sake is one of Japan’s traditional
culinary products and a drink that people imbibe with enjoyment.
At this event, 21 cities in Japan have sent representatives of 36
breweries to present 88 selections of their finest sake. Please
enjoy to the fullest this assortment of sake that offers pleasant
drinking while comforting the spirit.”
Yamamoto Kosei, Senior Vice President
of Mutual Trading Company, was the host of the largest booth, the
centerpiece of the entire sake tasting. “We were glad to see how
many people came to the previous event at Katana Restaurant in
Hollywood,” said Mr. Yamamoto, “and there seems to be even more
people here.”
He gave an appreciative glance around
the room. “Mutual Trading takes every opportunity to help
Americans get acquainted with sake and Japanese cuisine.” Mr.
Yamamoto supervised a crew of a dozen or so employees who manned
the central Mutual Trading booth and was attentive to every
detail. He turned to one of the crew, Chuman Shinobu, to explain
the attractions of the dozens of sakes available for tasting at
the booth. It was a bewildering assortment, but Mr. Chuman
explained things simply.
“Just like wine, there are dry and
sweet types of sake,” he said. “If you like a dry wine, like a
Chablis, you’ll probably like a dry sake. After that, it’s just a
matter of personal preference the particular sake that appeals to
you.”
At that moment, Kitaoka Kazuyoshi, the
renowned journalist who has hosted JATV (shown Saturday nights at
7:30 pm on Channel 18, KSCI) for more than twenty years, appeared
with a tasting cup in his hand. “This is Dassai,” said Mr. Kitaoka,
picking up a bottle that was on display at the booth. “It comes
from a brewery in Yamaguchi Prefecture. I myself visited that
brewery a few months ago and was given a tour by the President,
Mr. Sakurai. Dassai has been designated as the official sake of
the PGA.”
Mr. Chuman added his own comments.
“Dassai has a strong fragrance that is very appealing. And it is a
light sake that compliments fish and similar dishes. Many people
find it adds nicely to their enjoyment of a meal.”
“Dassai is made from the finest rice,”
said Mr. Kitaoka, still savoring the sample in his tasting cup.
“It is polished to 23% of the original grain, so the fermentation
process results in a very pure sake. Take my word for it, Dassai
is the best sake in the world.” (As an aside it should be
mentioned that well before the end of the tasting the Dassai
Junmai Daiginjo bottles had been drained dry by repeat samplings
by attendees.)
“Here is another dry sake,” said Mr.
Chuman, still eager to promote the products at the Mutual Trading
booth. “It is called Antigua, and like the other varieties of sake
on display here, it is available at Whole Foods Markets, Nijiya,
Marukai and other Japanese food markets and online. And here we
have another popular brand,” Mr. Chuman continued, “Kubota. It is
one of our best sellers.” Then he went to another part of the
booth and picked up a bottle. “This is an organic sake, brewed
with organically grown rice and made with all natural ingredients.
We really have something for everyone here.”
During this time there were film crews
taking footage for there television broadcasts. Besides JATV,
which came along with Mr. Kitaoka, United Television Broadcasting
(UTB) was busy covering the event. This is additional proof of the
widespread interest in sake.
The stalwarts of the sake world, Ozeki
and Gekkeikan, also had booths at the sake tasting. For many years
those were the only brands of sake available in America. “Our
sales have doubled and tripled over the years,” explained Ito
Satoru, Sales Manager for Gekkeikan, “along with the growing
popularity of sake. Now we have additional products to offer,
including Zipang, a sparkling beverage that has been well-received
by both men and women.”
All of the comments about sake and the
plethora of brands on display sparked interest in learning more of
the technical details about sake and the brewing process.
Anticipating this, Mutual Trading had one of its sake sommeliers,
Matsumoto Yuji, give a short seminar on the subject.
 Using
a slide projection system, Mr. Matsumoto began his lecture by
telling the audience of 50 or 60 people about the fundamental
charms of sake. “First of all, sake has a clean and smooth taste.
That makes it enjoyable to drink for all sorts of people and
palates. Sake is also a completely natural product. Unlike some
kinds of wines, it never contains any sulfites. In addition, it
can be enjoyed at various temperatures. Some people like to drink
it chilled, but others like it heated and still others prefer it
at room temperature, just like wine. Finally, sake is a great
compliment to all sorts of cuisines.
“In regards to the last point, people
often ask what kind of sake to pair with what kind of cuisine. In
general, light dishes, such as grilled or roasted fish, go well
with Daiginjo style sake. Ginjo and Junmai go well with moderately
light/heavy dishes, and Junmai is best paired with heavy or spicy
dishes like beef roasts or that sort of thing.
“As for the ingredients involved in
the brewing of sake, first there is rice (sakamai). There are
three varieties, Yamada-Nishiki, Omachi and Gohyaku-Mangoku. They
have large kernels, are fragile an have a high concentration of
starch in the core. These rices are difficult to cultivate and
require the greatest care to bring to harvest.
“Then there is the water. 80% of sake
is water. Hard water produces a full-bodied sake, while soft water
produces a mild and smooth type of sake. The brewer must be keenly
aware of exactly what ingredients are available and how to best
utilize them.”
Mr. Matsumoto’s lecture was brief and
to the point. He is a registered sake sommelier and doubles as a
member of Mutual Trading’s Business Development and Planning
Department. Another visit to the Mutual Trading booth resulted in
an encounter with the daughter of the founder of Mutual Trading,
Kanai Noritoshi.
Ms. Kanai Atsuko suggested that in
regards to sake, “You should find out what you like yourself the
most. For instance, with wine, what do you like?
“At Mutual Trading, we have meetings
every week where we try up to ten kinds of sake. Today we had an
umeshu (plum wine) that we tried. There is a great variety of
beverages to enjoy.
“People often ask me what the best
sake is. In my opinion, quality or expense is not important. What
is most important is what appeals to your own taste buds.
“I wish there were more events like
this held, not only sponsored by breweries, but also by
restaurants. And the sake seminar given here was great to provide
an education for people about sake.”
The final word was given by Nancy
Kikuchi, who was heroically manning the Ozeki booth for the whole
event. Ms. Kikuchi is the Business Counselor for the Little Tokyo
Service Center Community Development Corporation. “I think that
it’s wonderful that Sushi & Sake magazine provides an opportunity
for people to get together and try all sorts of sake and listen to
Mr. Matsumoto talk about sake.”
One wholeheartedly agrees and looks
forward to the next sake tasting.
|
