On April 18 the Sake & Beer Expo was held at Le Meridien Hotel in Beverly Hills in order to promote the appreciation of Japanese sake and its charms and to expand sales in the American market. To that end, representatives of 15 breweries attended from Japan, exhibiting 120 varieties of sake and 20 kinds of shochu, as well as a number of beers to an assembled crowd of 400.

This event was sponsored by JFC International, Inc. JFC International was founded 100 years ago, and has now grown to become one of the major wholesalers of Asian food products. Besides that, it also handles distribution for Hakushika Brewery, Hakutsuru Brewery, Ozeki Brewery, Jizake, Inc. and Sapporo USA. Among these, Jizake, Inc. offers a large variety of locally produced sake.

Jizake, Inc. was founded in 1996 through the cooperation of 12 breweries. It is an association dedicated to the concept of thoroughgoing low-temperature distribution of jizake produced by local breweries to ensure quality and to introduce the world to the richly unique jizake brewed all over Japan. They declare that their distribution process shuts out what may be said to be the enemies of sake, "temperature, sunlight and vibration" so that sake can be offered that can be　enjoyed just as it was shipped from the brewery itself. In the past, sake that was shipped by sea from Japan to America took 30 days to arrive at Los Angeles. Not only that, but since dry transport containers were used, daytime temperatures topped 50C° (122F°) varying down to 20C° (68F°) at night, so that even if the bottles were not opened, it was if they had been heated to serving temperature and then cooled, causing a deterioration in the quality. Because of that, it was unavoidable that consumers were offered only hot sake that eliminated undesirable odors that had developed. It might be said that Jizake, Inc. was established for the purpose of rectifying this situation.

Sake that is sold by Jizake, Inc. bears the Jizake label by which it can be understood at a glance the type of sake that it is. There are five kinds of these labels.

1. Jukushu (aged type)
   Heavy, with a complex fragrance, a type that can be appreciated for its mellow aging (Koshu is representative of this type)
     
2. Junshu (rich type)
   A type with a gentle fragrance and full body (Junmaishu, etc.)
     
3. Kunshu (fragrant type)
   Strong fragrance, flavorful type (Daiginjo, Ginjo, etc.)
     
4. Sohshu (light and smooth type)
   Clear and light with a fresh taste
     
5. Other (miscellaneous)

Upon entering the exhibition site, one encountered casks of various brands on display. At the site there were bottles of sake lined up along with their brewery, and naturally, with more than one hundred \ varieties of sake arrayed, it was an impressive sight. Right in front was a booth set up by Chiyomusubi Sake Brewery where I had a taste of Oninoshitaburui. This sake had a label which read "Junshu." It was a sake that was extremely smooth to the tongue, as well as having a dry, refreshing taste. Next, I tasted a Junmai Ginjo named Ryo. The distinctive feature of this sake, leaving everything else aside, was the bottle. It was of a light blue color and the bottle had a twisted shape. Usually, bottles of green or brown color are the rule. The person who tasted it before I did was a restaurant owner who was impressed with the shape of the bottle, which he had never seen, and asked to have an empty one. Well then, this sake was labeled as "Sohshu." As for the taste, it was a dry sake with a subdued fragrance, but since it was a Junmai sake, the taste of rice filled the mouth, and was quite delicious.

President Okasora of Chiyomusubi Brewery stated, "Sake in Japan reflects variations in the local food culture of each region, the historical background, the weather, water, and rice, etc., which produce a wide variety of differences. That diversity is displayed in the rich variety of jizake and the differences that are produced by the brewing processes of Ginjo and Daiginjo sake. And therefore, different kinds of sake can be enjoyed on different occasions, and that's one of the great charms of Japanese sake." At this year's Expo 14 representatives of breweries came from Japan, but he was the only one wearing formal Japanese clothing, which made a strong impression.

Next, I tasted "Nigori sake," which is popular among women. Sayuri, which has just started being sold by Hakutsuru Brewery, is the one I tasted. It had a feathery smooth taste, very mild. Especially notable was the fact that it did not have an unpleasantly sweet or strange after- taste. Mr. Hirayama of Hakutsuru    Brewery explained that, "We call it Junmai Nigori Sake, Sayori. We have just begun selling it recently, and as you can see, it has a pink bottle and a pink cap with a label of Japanese paper, which is very popular. Nigori sake has the reputation of being a ladies' sake, but it is a sake that we hope that men will drink as well."

In one comer of the exhibition site, cocktails mixed using sake and Calpico (a yogurt-flavored kind of drink) were tasted by many people. "Cocktails made with vodka are dry and I don't like them, but these cocktails made with sake as the mixer are wonderful! It's like I could drink any number of glasses, Delicious," said Ms. Angel Parker of West Los Angeles. She continued, "This is the first time I've been to a sake tasting, but I'm really enjoying myself." There were many attendees associated with the restaurant industry, and they eagerly questioned the breweries about such things as the special characteristics of each of the sakes. As this was a tasting, one was supposed to spit out the sake in ones mouth without swallowing, but that was such a waste that I ended up drinking it. I wound up drinking a considerable amount and the floor felt like it was tilt- ed!

Japanese sake has an adaptability that can fit any occasion, so it is a multi-purpose  alcoholic drink. One feels that it has a character and depth that can match all sorts of situations. In order to enhance the appreciation of Japanese sake and to increase the number of its fans, it is hoped that there will be more of these sake tastings. Those were the kinds of thoughts that occurred to me as I left the site of the event.

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