,
10845 Lindbrook Drive, Westwood, 310-209-0071.
Taj, 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-652-3838.
There’s
a very cool DJ at Tengu Sushi Lounge, a chic Westwood hangout that is
so sizzling it’s amazing the sushi chefs can keep their fish from
cooking. Those fish include not just the usual tuna, salmon and
halibut but Blue Ribbon albacore and regular, fatty and Kanpachi
(baby) yellowtail, and sea urchin sashimi, as custardy as crème
brulee, in scooped out lemons. Anton Posniak and Alan Nathan, who
created this clubby restaurant, made sure the food was given top
priority.
When Chef de Cuisine
Joseph Herreros arrived from Border Grill, he added Latin touches like
Asian tapas (albacore tempura, a crunchy crust wrapped around a
seaweed sack with a smidge of spicy tuna at the center, and imokoro,
pureed mountain potato with seaweed and ahi, etc.). Confit duck
tostadas are sport five spice mole and lime crème fraiche. Herreros
zipped up the desserts with coconut crème brulee, macadamia nutbars,
and strawberry rhubarb pie with vanilla ice cream and berry-mint
compote.
Joni Gunawan, a Taiwanese
sushi chef who was born in Jakarta and trained in Japan, thus figuring
into this global mix, makes sushi wonders. Cooked menu standouts are
crispy tofu tower (won ton disks heaped with tartare); coconut shrimp;
C4 — “dynamite” with shrimp, crabs, scallops and mushrooms;
Chilean seabass; filet mignon; teriyaki; twice-cooked chicken; and
green tea pasta. We like our green tea in a cup but Tengu’s infused
sakes in myriad flavors, served cold in small martini glasses,
poetically-named specialty cocktails and wine list are enticing.
Gaylord’s quietly
offered high quality, traditional Indian cuisine before changing names
to Taj nouvelle Indian cuisine. But new owner, Israel Itzkovitz, a
well-fed and well-traveled jewelry merchant, kicked it up a notch with
the help of his favorite sushi chef, Tadashi Murakami, who consulted
with him on an Indian-Japanese menu. “Indo de Ginza” cuisine,
currently three appetizers and five mains, is classic Indian dishes
— grills, marinades and such — imbued with Asian flavors through
the use of spices. Two of the most popular: chicken pakora samurai,
julienned strips of spiced chicken, and the wildly popular rice cigars
Edo Taj, delicate rice paper rolls stuffed with vegetables and set off
with sweet-hot mango-wasabi sauce. Dosa Osaka (crispy rice wafers
stuffed with potatoes) rounds out the trio.
Among the mains are salmon
Indo de Ginza, marinated tandoor-baked filet with Edo Taj glaze,
served with rice noodles; rice lamb cigars Edo Taj (rice paper filled
with spiced minced lamb and mango-wasabi sauce); cod masala (sauteed
cod filet on spinach in masala sauce); scallop de Ginza in Josh, an
onion gravy; and prawns Yokozuna (marinated in herbs, fused with zesty
spices and served with ginger rice). The biggest surprise is chicken
tandoor teriyaki. Instead of the typically cloying, oversauced mess we
expected when manager Tony Oberoi and the owner’s wife, Tammy, who
is the hostess, pushed us to order it, we got an amazingly moist and
tender bird with charred skin and a delicate sauce. It was our
favorite dish.
For the rest, we watched
the chef in the open kitchen tending the tandoori-baked breads and
fresh seafood combination we’d ordered. We also went with a
delicious lamb curry, having noted it was made with fresh spices not
curry powder. We finished with a zippy fennel seed sorbet. Other than
hazelnut and cappucino ice cream and sorbet, the other desserts were
nothing we hadn’t seen before. But Japanese-Indian food — that’s
another story.