Year of Boar

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Intro to Basic Sake 101
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Definition of Sake Categorization
Seven Theories of drinking sake with food
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Knack for finding good sake


Sake, Sushi and Fun For Everyone
All Japan Sake Tasting
Sake & Beer Beverly Hills 
I Love Sake! Do You Like It?
Matching Sake with Food Part 3
Cooking Club - Jan
Sukiyaki & Sake
Cooking Club Report 5
Recipes
  
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Message from JNTO
 
  Japan National Tourist Org.
  

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Kawai Kalender of Events
  

 ARTICLES

Shintaro Agi's
Los Angeles Diary
Dear Dr. Tatsuko
Pet Care News
  
 ENTERTAINMENT
Entertain your BRAIN  
8/2006
The World of Go
5/2006
 

  
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Japanese Fusion: a cultural mix of food and people
by Andrea Lita Rademan (September 2001)
Tengu Sushi Lounge, 10845 Lindbrook Drive, Westwood, 310-209-0071.
Taj, 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310-652-3838.

There’s a very cool DJ at Tengu Sushi Lounge, a chic Westwood hangout that is so sizzling it’s amazing the sushi chefs can keep their fish from cooking. Those fish include not just the usual tuna, salmon and halibut but Blue Ribbon albacore and regular, fatty and Kanpachi (baby) yellowtail, and sea urchin sashimi, as custardy as crème brulee, in scooped out lemons. Anton Posniak and Alan Nathan, who created this clubby restaurant, made sure the food was given top priority.

When Chef de Cuisine Joseph Herreros arrived from Border Grill, he added Latin touches like Asian tapas (albacore tempura, a crunchy crust wrapped around a seaweed sack with a smidge of spicy tuna at the center, and imokoro, pureed mountain potato with seaweed and ahi, etc.). Confit duck tostadas are sport five spice mole and lime crème fraiche. Herreros zipped up the desserts with coconut crème brulee, macadamia nutbars, and strawberry rhubarb pie with vanilla ice cream and berry-mint compote.

Joni Gunawan, a Taiwanese sushi chef who was born in Jakarta and trained in Japan, thus figuring into this global mix, makes sushi wonders. Cooked menu standouts are crispy tofu tower (won ton disks heaped with tartare); coconut shrimp; C4 — “dynamite” with shrimp, crabs, scallops and mushrooms; Chilean seabass; filet mignon; teriyaki; twice-cooked chicken; and green tea pasta. We like our green tea in a cup but Tengu’s infused sakes in myriad flavors, served cold in small martini glasses, poetically-named specialty cocktails and wine list are enticing.

Gaylord’s quietly offered high quality, traditional Indian cuisine before changing names to Taj nouvelle Indian cuisine. But new owner, Israel Itzkovitz, a well-fed and well-traveled jewelry merchant, kicked it up a notch with the help of his favorite sushi chef, Tadashi Murakami, who consulted with him on an Indian-Japanese menu. “Indo de Ginza” cuisine, currently three appetizers and five mains, is classic Indian dishes — grills, marinades and such — imbued with Asian flavors through the use of spices. Two of the most popular: chicken pakora samurai, julienned strips of spiced chicken, and the wildly popular rice cigars Edo Taj, delicate rice paper rolls stuffed with vegetables and set off with sweet-hot mango-wasabi sauce. Dosa Osaka (crispy rice wafers stuffed with potatoes) rounds out the trio.

Among the mains are salmon Indo de Ginza, marinated tandoor-baked filet with Edo Taj glaze, served with rice noodles; rice lamb cigars Edo Taj (rice paper filled with spiced minced lamb and mango-wasabi sauce); cod masala (sauteed cod filet on spinach in masala sauce); scallop de Ginza in Josh, an onion gravy; and prawns Yokozuna (marinated in herbs, fused with zesty spices and served with ginger rice). The biggest surprise is chicken tandoor teriyaki. Instead of the typically cloying, oversauced mess we expected when manager Tony Oberoi and the owner’s wife, Tammy, who is the hostess, pushed us to order it, we got an amazingly moist and tender bird with charred skin and a delicate sauce. It was our favorite dish.

For the rest, we watched the chef in the open kitchen tending the tandoori-baked breads and fresh seafood combination we’d ordered. We also went with a delicious lamb curry, having noted it was made with fresh spices not curry powder. We finished with a zippy fennel seed sorbet. Other than hazelnut and cappucino ice cream and sorbet, the other desserts were nothing we hadn’t seen before. But Japanese-Indian food — that’s another story.

 

 

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